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Four towns, four looms

How to tell the weaves apart, what to wear each one to, and how to care for silk so it lasts a lifetime.

Red and white saree
Blue and yellow saree
Blue and red saree
Yellow and blue saree
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01 · Maheshwar

Maheshwari

Look for the reversible border, called bugdi, and the five stripes at the pallu end. The weave feels crisp but breathes.

Price range
₹4,500 – ₹12,000
Tell it by
Same border on both sides
Care
Gentle hand wash, dry in shade
02 · Chanderi

Chanderi

Hold it to the light. A real Chanderi is see-through without being flimsy, with butis woven in, not printed.

Price range
₹5,500 – ₹18,000
Tell it by
Glassy sheen, woven butis
Care
Dry clean the first time
03 · Varanasi

Banarasi

Turn it over. Handwoven Banarasi shows floats on the reverse where the zari jumps between motifs.

Price range
₹14,000 – ₹90,000
Tell it by
Floats on the reverse side
Care
Dry clean only, wrap in muslin
04 · Paithan

Paithani

The pallu has no wrong side. Peacocks, lotus and parrots are woven by interlocking each colour by hand.

Price range
₹22,000 – ₹2,50,000
Tell it by
Identical pallu front and back
Care
Refold every three months

Silk care, simply

Air it

After wearing, hang the saree in shade for an hour before folding it away.

Refold

Change the folds every few months so zari does not crack along one line.

Muslin

Store each silk in a soft cotton cloth, never plastic. Silk needs to breathe.

No perfume

Spray perfume before draping. Alcohol stains silk and tarnishes zari.

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